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Accident scene photography - technical aspects, not legal aspects
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Posted By jom
Anyone have any practical tips for photographing accident scenes?
Good tips for persons who may not be skilled photographers, and will have to use whatever cameras and equipment are to hand.
Could we omit the legal considerations, please? There is another thread adequately working on those.
I've noticed that much important information can be found around the accident site. People probably focus on the precise accident site, but they ought to photograph all around as well.
Deep shadows can cause alot of detail to be lost. How can an amateur photographer avoid that?
John.
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Posted By Jane Blunt
One tip is always to have something in shot that indicates size. Avoid using coins, as they are not universal - a ruler or other marker is better.
To avoid shadows you need to get good lighting before taking the photograph. Take pictures from different angles. Look up, look down, look round.
Think through your photographs as though they are telling a story. I know the cupboard door was closed because the charring is on the outside, I know the guard was in place at the time of the flashover because there is charring and bubbling of the plastic........ Articles may have been moved during or shortly after the incident, but often the evidence of where they were is preserved and can be photographed.
Jane
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Posted By jom
"Think through your photographs as though they are telling a story."
Jane, that's brilliant. That's what needs to be recorded, isn't it? Not just the objects, but "what occurred here?".
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Posted By Dave Merchant
If your camera/phone has video it's always worth filming a walkthrough of the scene, as it's far easier to visualize the layout of things when watching video - plus you might capture something you forgot to take stills of.
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Posted By Paul Leadbetter
A lot of detail can be recovered from a digital photograph by a competent user of software such as Photoshop that would have been lost forever with film-based images.
I review a lot of reports containing photographs that are often blurred through the use of a long exposure time in poor light. Use any convenient support (wall, stanchion, piece of equipment, etc.) to ensure that your camera does not move during the exposure. Alternatively, use a camera with stability control.
Paul
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Posted By stephen d clarke
Hi,
I would also add that in my experience you can't take too many photos and the digital camera makes this very easy. Invariably I'll find just 5 or 6 that show main points very clearly from the 50 or 60 that I've taken. Also at those early stages in an investigation it isn't always immediately obvious what is key so snap everything.
Steve
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Posted By Pete48
David Bailey, I think, once said that the only real difference between a professional and amateur photographer was that whilst the amateur was thinking about taking a picture, the professional had taken 50 and would discard 49 of them later during processing.
If there is one common thread to any incident investigation, it is that you don't know what you don't know etc etc. So if there are no obvious pictures to take, just take loads anyway and from different angles, wide area shots to show the surrounding area even the link is ot obvious at the time is often important and as Jane says something to illustrate size if there is nothing obvious in the picture to define that.
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Posted By Renny Thomson
To avoid shadows use "fill-in" flash or even bring in halogen lights to illuminate clearly. As others have said, not only the incident site, but the approach and surroundings. Use small exposure settings to get greater depth of field (more in focus), but this will lead to longer exposure times so use a tripod or stabilise as others have suggested.
If possible, a "birds-eye" view can help with orientation. Check for access to high windows nearby, or use step ladders (safely of course!)
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Posted By Brett Day
Whilst fill in flash can negate shadows, sometimes it is worth taking a photo without the flash to show shadows, if the incident has lighting as a factor showing where the main source of illumination is coming from is also very usefull.
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Posted By Warren Fothergill
Some great answers, particularly the David Bailey one, which is so true.
One word of caution. Most of you are saying lighting is an issue, you don't want shadows etc., but in essence, the lighting may be an indirect cause of the incident. I would take numerous shots of 'as is' and then utilise the flash etc.
Additionally, as an alternative to tradition I would say, that when you have to photograph what you have, with the minimum of equipment, the safety practitioner may find the use of a decent camera phone ideal. There are quite a few on the market too, offering good clarity and pixel quality. But then you may suffer the new dreaded 'nophoneamobia' phenomina!!! Thats a different thread entirely.
Many common cameras have a night setting if it is darker it will give a 'delayed flash'
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Posted By jom
Warren,
Light & shadow. I guess this depends on whether the scene is indoors or outdoors.
Outdoors, the sun & clouds will have moved, so you can't capture the lighting at the time of the incident.
I think the deep shade problem might occur more often with outside shots, particularly with closeups of equipment.
John.
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Posted By David Bannister
Good thread.
One obvious point not specifically mentioned yet is to ensure that some photos are taken from the injured persons viewpoint plus from any other persons eye position involved in the incident. Sightlines and vision blockages may then become apparent. Of course it is essential to get these locations and camera positions as accurate as possible or false conclusions may result.
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Posted By jom
David,
Now you've introduced the issue of documenting each picture.
A digital camera can timestamp each pic, but can't record position. (Some outfits can do this on big incidents using GPS.)
What are the options?
A notebook
A voice recorder
A sketch map of the area and mark it up
Seems tricky, but necessary.
John.
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Posted By David Bannister
John, I was thinking about the photography as part of an investigation in to why and what to do about it, rather than part of a claims process. The original thread title was technical, not legal.
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Posted By Brando
Presuming this is digital....
I try and avoid flash.
Set the ISO to 100 and turn the flash off.
Make sure the camera's anti-shake is set to on.
Turn the auto-white balance on.
Don't use spot focus - depends on you camera but mine has various focus options. Go for one that takes more than one light reading from the subject.
In dark areas you may have no choice but to use the flash. If so try the fill-in flash first or try tissue paper over the flash to take the edge off.
If going in close make sure you use the macro. My camera has the nasty habit on close ups of looking in focus on the screen but the photos are blurred when blown up onto the computer screen.
Main problem I have with photos others have taken is that they often get in too close and forget to take some wide, establishing shots of the area concerned with something for scale.
Also - set to the highest quality - you can then zoom in without problems when you get the photo onto the computer. Avoid zoom when taking the photo unless optical - digital zoom can be grainy.
Brando
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Posted By jom
David.
"John, I was thinking about the photography as part of an investigation in to why and what to do about it, rather than part of a claims process. The original thread title was technical, not legal."
That's right, I'm not interested in the legal side, just taking shots to help understand the accident.
Imagine a large scale scene and you end up with 100 pictures or more.
They need to be documented, don't they? Otherwise you end up with loads of shots and not remembering where they were taken. That's all I was thinking of, not the legal bit.
John.
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Posted By dave hazell
Hi - I always find it important to think "3D" i.e. if the accident is a slip or trip then get down on the floor and photograph potential causes, hazards or just the scene from lower levels, then get up and go right over the top for a bird's eye view. Also think "up & down" as well as "side to side".
E.g. Could the water on the floor have come from a leaky roof?
A lot can be learned from what is above & below the scene as well as what is at "eye level".
Hand prints & footprints are usually a good thing to make note of as well.
Just as a note I always date & sign the back of any snaps I take - just in case!
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