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Posted By Andrew Shaw
Hi,
We are a shop-fit and office refurb company and thus far have tested our equipment on an all too ad-hoc basis. I have now bourght a good Megger PAT machine and have sent one of our guys on the City and Guilds PAT course - which he has passed.
However, it seems that Testing is far less straightforward than most would have you believe.
Today I chose 3 items to start things off; a kettle, a desk top fan and my own laptop and not one was straightforward.
I had to dismantle the fan to get to an earthed metal part.
The kettle was modern and plastic, with the only earthed metal part being the element which it was not possible to clip on to.
And, I'm supposed to be clipping the earth Continuity lead to an exposed metal part of my laptop - ????
Anyway, what I'm looking for is a source of sound practical advice on how to deal with these, I'm assuming common, issues when you're not an electrician.
I've trawled the web and drawn a blank so far.
Any help gratefully received
Andy
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Posted By Safe System
Hi Andrew,
Probably not that helpful
However, I recently got a guy to come into the office and PAT hundreds and hundreds of items.. this took the best part of a day as the machine he had was fairly easy.
None of the faffing you have mentioned, just like plugged each item in to test (almost like plugging into a wall socket)
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Posted By Andrew Shaw
Hi Safe,
We did consider getting someone in but due to the nature of our work it would be a nightmare getting all our tools in one place at one time. We felt that if we had control it would be better.
Plus, from the little I now know I struggle to believe that that many items can be tested properly in one day. But hey - I could be wrong.
Andy
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Posted By Safe System
Andy,
Cuuld be the machine your using?
I was here when it all get tested, it can easily be done and is fairly normal.
Maybe i'm getting my wires crossed (no pun)
this is what i am thinking off (not affiliated in anyway)
http://www.firststopsafety.co.uk/Product/395
But his came on a trolley..
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Posted By Ian Gardner
Andrew,
Sound like you've come across some of the not-so-straightforward-to-test appliances that are about these days.
The desk fan: yes, many you have to take the blade guard and blades off to clip to the motor shaft. Annoying.
The kettle: why could you not clip to the element? Was it one of those flat plate ones? Otherwise, there's no reason not to clip on for the earth bond & insulation tests, and un-clip for any tests that would cause the element to begin heating.
The laptop: You should really only be performing electrical tests on the laptop PSU, not the laptop itself.
Your team should already have access to the IEE Code of Practice, seeing as one of your colleagues has passed C&G 2377, so that's a start.
Another good guide is 'Portable Appliance Testing' by Brian Scadden. Downloadable version here:
http://www.download-it.o...ntent=story&storyID=1350
but available to buy from many bookshops.
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Posted By Ron Hunter
I admit to being puzzled as to how some of these test instruments actually allow for effective earth continuity tests when there is no apparent provision to complete a circuit on the earth conductor.
Also concerned to see some 3rd party contractors wandering around active office spaces conducting pat tests - where in theory this should involve 30 Amps passing through a croc-clip for Class 1 gear. Isn't this essentially "live working" and somewhat hazardous? Maybe someone can clarify. I live and learn.
I note the product safe system provides a link to has blurb suggesting ideal for use on construction sites - but only has connection for Bs1363 and IEC pattern leads. What about all the 110V stuff then?!
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Posted By Ron Hunter
Ian: that tempting web link is broken?
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Posted By Ian Gardner
In relation to the 'live working' question:
There are 2 types of Class I earth bond test. The 'hard test' is a high current test (test current should be not less than 1.5 x fuse rating, upto a max of 26A). Many PAT machines offer currents such as 4A, 8A, 10A and 25A for this. The test should only be performed on items such as kettles, toasters, heaters, tools etc. ie. non-delicate appliances that can handle the current.
The 'soft test' has a test current in the range 20mA - 200mA, and is designed for IT equipment and other appliances that contain delicate electronics.
The IEE Code of Practice (3rd edition) goes into more detail on these tests (section 15.4, pages 73 - 74)
I would hope that a competent PAT tester would be using the 'soft test' for the majority of Class I appliances found in an office environment.
Additionally, the PAT tester should create a safe exclusion zone around any appliances they are testing, so no-one, including themselves, should be touching the appliance while tests are performed.
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Posted By Ian Gardner
Ron,
Just spotted this as well: "I admit to being puzzled as to how some of these test instruments actually allow for effective earth continuity tests when there is no apparent provision to complete a circuit on the earth conductor."
All PAT instruments I've every used or seen all have an 'earth bond lead', otherwise the earth bond test would indeed be impossible.
Is that what you mean?
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Posted By Crim
I hope you don't think I'm being smart here but your recently trained person can surely go back to the trainer for further advice on this subject. If he was trained to use the item of equipment he must know exactly how to test?
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Posted By Ron Hunter
Yes Ian, we're on the same page there.
Even some of the "hard" items you mention have electronic components these days (e.g. toasters). From observation of typical contractor working practice, there is usually no safe exclusion zone created, and I wonder if any of the so-called earth integrity tests actually go beyond milliampere continuity testing.
The amount of dismantling and by-passing you'd have to do to conduct a "proper" earth test on some of these Class 1 items would be quite time consuming and the risks & liability issues associated with taking something to bits and putting it back together are surely matters to be considered too.
With my cynic hat on, if you're not doing a proper high current test on a Class 1 appliance I have to wonder why you'd bother testing it at all.
Then again, and as we all know, there's no law that says we have to test any of the kit anyway!
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