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wclark1238  
#1 Posted : 20 June 2012 13:52:12(UTC)
Rank: Forum user
wclark1238

Looking for any pointers please....... Our small production department have designed a new product and are currently developing appropriate work instructions etc for the assembly and test of same. The only area that is significantly differerent to our normal activities (with regard to the build of this variant) is that a small PVC tank needs to have a small slot 'cut out' of one side. This slot has to be a certain dimension to fulfill requirements of the Water Regs. The prototyping has seen the production manager acquire a Bosch GKF600 Router. He's built a jig/guide which allows for the slot to be 'cut' out on a repeatable basis. Now, perhaps slightly later than ideal, he's asked me to get involved to review the H&S implications and to risk assess the activities. It is anticipated that a batch of perhaps 20-30 tanks would be prepared in advance and put into stock to be 'consumed' over a period of a few weeks before another batch would be prepared for stock. The obvious points that I've so far noted are the hazards associated with the exposed router bit, the need for eye and hearing protection, electrical testing and pre-use inspection of router. I was perhaps a bit surprised to see that the switching of this router does not, by design, allow for any 'dead man's switch' type action. The on/off switch is of the latching type and there is no 'trigger' or similar. Am wondering about introducing a foot operated switch to interrupt the power supply in lieu of 'dead man's handle'. I'd be grateful for any ideas, thoughts, observations or anecdotes that might help me to get this right.
achrn  
#2 Posted : 20 June 2012 16:47:54(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
achrn

In my experience (only as a DIY-er with routers) they practically never have a dead-mans switch - certainly it's not at all unusual not to. A big router (which I appreciate this is not) has quite a kick when it starts up, and you don't want it kicking unexpectedly when you're trying to feed it smoothly along a workpiece (as would happen, for example, if you fumbled a sprung trigger). I must admit, of all the powertools I use, my big router is the one that 'scares' me most - the speed at which it converts hardwood to dust always puts me in mind of the speed at which it would convert fingers to... All anecdote, but you asked for it!
Safety Smurf  
#3 Posted : 20 June 2012 21:35:24(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
Safety Smurf

Safety aside, I'm guessing this must be a variable speed router? Fixed speed routers would turn PVC to snot within seconds if you weren't quick enough on the job.
wclark1238  
#4 Posted : 22 June 2012 08:53:25(UTC)
Rank: Forum user
wclark1238

[Safety Smurf] It is a fixed-speed bit of kit.........33,000rpm. As I mentioned, there is a jig in place that ensures that the slot position and size is constantly reproduced from one tank to the next. [achrn] I take the point about starting 'kick' and how a momentary acting switch (or a retrofitted dead-man's foot pedal) might cause issues in this area. I guess we go with the latching switch as per the manufacturer. Even though this is a small bit of kit it certainly does have the potential to turn flesh and bone into wall decoration in very short order......I share your nervousness about this family of machinery. [ron hunter] Pushing this activity back to the supplier is certainly an option. The only obvious downsides to this surround the relatively small quantity that we use, the interchangeability - we use this same tank (without slot) on other variants and cost. If volumes increase then it may well be best to approach our supplier and discuss their ability to supply a slotted option.
walker  
#5 Posted : 22 June 2012 11:56:41(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
walker

This is most likely unhelpful but my big orange Triton router has a soft start.
achrn  
#6 Posted : 22 June 2012 12:08:21(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
achrn

walker wrote:
This is most likely unhelpful but my big orange Triton router has a soft start.
Big ones generally do, I think, but even with a soft start a 2000 W motor heading for 20,000 rpm can kick. The manufacturers selection of softness is probably a trade-off between the forces at start up and the delay until it's at usable speed - since applying the tool to the workpiece before it's up to speed is probably worse still than a bit of a kick. My DW625EK definitely kicks on start, especially with a big bit, though the spec claims a soft start. I have no idea how soft a start the Bosch under question has (if any). I'd still want to avoid a sprung trigger on a router even if it was a very soft start, I think. Of course, I'm aware that I might simply be echoing every workman ever faced by a H&S ruling since the dawn of time - "but we've always done it that way..."
MaxPayne  
#7 Posted : 22 June 2012 14:03:36(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
MaxPayne

I use an old Elu MOF router usually with a 1/2" replacement tip cutter and Trend router jigs for various worktop joints. In terms of safety the operator definately needs to be competent and have a basic understanding of how the cutter revolves and from which side of the jig to operate etc. Mine has a soft-start function which I'd absolutely recommend as it avoids that jerk upon start-up; make sure always that tooling is sharp and located in the chuck to the indicated depth, that collets and chuck are clean and lock well onto the tooling to affect a secure hold. Remember this thing is whizzing around an many thousands of RPM and you don't want it coming loose. Having had tungsten carbide cutters shatter, you must wear a decent set of eye protection, but ear defenders and RPE or preferably dust extraction are also important. Some tips - always allow the cutter to do the work; never force the machine; don't tray and take too much material in one go, that's how cutters shatter, especially with hard-woods. Keep the lead clear of the machine/cutter and avoid trip hazards; secure the workpiece and try a dry-run before you switch-on to make sure you ahve room, enough lead, etc. Make sure you've set the depth stop so that the cutter returns inside the base plate when un-plunging - that's also to save you damaging costly jigs as welll as keeping the cutter away from your flesh and fingers. A dead-man's type switch is not something I've ever seen on a router, and not sure it would do much. They mostly require two hands to hold and I'd suggest you keep two hands on the thing until it is eaither safely removed from the workpiece and is running down/switched off else it could snatch and then you're in trouble. Last point - you can buy proprietry tables or make your own so that the router sits upside down and forms a small spindle moulder essentially. The risk here increases dramatically so if you're doing that make sure you have good fences, guards and extra switches so that you keep all your fingers. Personally, I'd say a 9"+ circular saw was was more scary if that bites.
B.Bruce  
#8 Posted : 22 June 2012 14:13:03(UTC)
Rank: Forum user
B.Bruce

Hi wclark, As mentioned previously, the start up speed is an issue and can cause problems when cutting plastics in particular - due to their hardness and surface texture. We had an incident 8 weeks ago where an employee wasnt paying attention when starting up the router. He ended up with a broken finger. As he started the tool it jumped across the workpiece striking his other hand (which was around 250-300mm away). His other hand was gloved, the router bit caught the glove wrapping the glove-tip and finger tip (to a degree) around the router bit. They can be dangerous if the operator is inexperienced or complacent/distracted - which can be said for most power tools however. Hope this helps.
LoganCairns  
#9 Posted : 13 September 2021 23:42:01(UTC)
Rank: New forum user
LoganCairns

If you are connected to a VPN or corporate network the router login page may not work. Disconnect any such network and try accessing only being connected to your NETGEAR router. 

Roundtuit  
#10 Posted : 14 September 2021 07:21:50(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
Roundtuit

Reported because the post is not discussing that type of equipment and is worded like a lot of ressurection SPAM

thanks 4 users thanked Roundtuit for this useful post.
peter gotch on 14/09/2021(UTC), RVThompson on 14/09/2021(UTC), peter gotch on 14/09/2021(UTC), RVThompson on 14/09/2021(UTC)
Roundtuit  
#11 Posted : 14 September 2021 07:21:50(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
Roundtuit

Reported because the post is not discussing that type of equipment and is worded like a lot of ressurection SPAM

thanks 4 users thanked Roundtuit for this useful post.
peter gotch on 14/09/2021(UTC), RVThompson on 14/09/2021(UTC), peter gotch on 14/09/2021(UTC), RVThompson on 14/09/2021(UTC)
achrn  
#12 Posted : 14 September 2021 07:53:58(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
achrn

They also can't tell the difference between a router that's a noisy motor with attached blades converting wood to sawdust quickly and a router that's a electronic device (often silently) directing packets of bytes where to go.

But computers struggle with context...

peter gotch  
#13 Posted : 14 September 2021 09:55:32(UTC)
Rank: Super forum user
peter gotch

achrn - the computers (usually) do what they are programmed to do - there are exceptions - when I was at Uni the new fangled NC machine (it was a very long time ago!) did something it had NOT been told to do and those who had programmed it couldn't work out why!

By pure coincidence, it was an NC controlled router cutting a groove on a plastic block. The groove was supposed to be a straight line but ended up with a right angled shape.

In contrast to the computer, the bots that crawl this site can't distinguish between one router (pronounced rowter) and another (pronounced rooter). The bots would prefer if we didn't use such a complex language as English, so that all words would have the same pronunctiation whatever the context and you couldn't have two different words with the same spelling.

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