Looking for any pointers please....... Our small production department have designed a new product and are currently developing appropriate work instructions etc for the assembly and test of same. The only area that is significantly differerent to our normal activities (with regard to the build of this variant) is that a small PVC tank needs to have a small slot 'cut out' of one side. This slot has to be a certain dimension to fulfill requirements of the Water Regs. The prototyping has seen the production manager acquire a Bosch GKF600 Router. He's built a jig/guide which allows for the slot to be 'cut' out on a repeatable basis. Now, perhaps slightly later than ideal, he's asked me to get involved to review the H&S implications and to risk assess the activities. It is anticipated that a batch of perhaps 20-30 tanks would be prepared in advance and put into stock to be 'consumed' over a period of a few weeks before another batch would be prepared for stock. The obvious points that I've so far noted are the hazards associated with the exposed router bit, the need for eye and hearing protection, electrical testing and pre-use inspection of router. I was perhaps a bit surprised to see that the switching of this router does not, by design, allow for any 'dead man's switch' type action. The on/off switch is of the latching type and there is no 'trigger' or similar. Am wondering about introducing a foot operated switch to interrupt the power supply in lieu of 'dead man's handle'. I'd be grateful for any ideas, thoughts, observations or anecdotes that might help me to get this right.

Safety aside, I'm guessing this must be a variable speed router? Fixed speed routers would turn PVC to snot within seconds if you weren't quick enough on the job.

This is most likely unhelpful but my big orange Triton router has a soft start.

I use an old Elu MOF router usually with a 1/2" replacement tip cutter and Trend router jigs for various worktop joints. In terms of safety the operator definately needs to be competent and have a basic understanding of how the cutter revolves and from which side of the jig to operate etc. Mine has a soft-start function which I'd absolutely recommend as it avoids that jerk upon start-up; make sure always that tooling is sharp and located in the chuck to the indicated depth, that collets and chuck are clean and lock well onto the tooling to affect a secure hold. Remember this thing is whizzing around an many thousands of RPM and you don't want it coming loose. Having had tungsten carbide cutters shatter, you must wear a decent set of eye protection, but ear defenders and RPE or preferably dust extraction are also important. Some tips - always allow the cutter to do the work; never force the machine; don't tray and take too much material in one go, that's how cutters shatter, especially with hard-woods. Keep the lead clear of the machine/cutter and avoid trip hazards; secure the workpiece and try a dry-run before you switch-on to make sure you ahve room, enough lead, etc. Make sure you've set the depth stop so that the cutter returns inside the base plate when un-plunging - that's also to save you damaging costly jigs as welll as keeping the cutter away from your flesh and fingers. A dead-man's type switch is not something I've ever seen on a router, and not sure it would do much. They mostly require two hands to hold and I'd suggest you keep two hands on the thing until it is eaither safely removed from the workpiece and is running down/switched off else it could snatch and then you're in trouble. Last point - you can buy proprietry tables or make your own so that the router sits upside down and forms a small spindle moulder essentially. The risk here increases dramatically so if you're doing that make sure you have good fences, guards and extra switches so that you keep all your fingers. Personally, I'd say a 9"+ circular saw was was more scary if that bites.